Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans
Introduction – Gold Meets Shadow
The Rose‑Gold Chronomètre Artisans (CA) reads like chiaroscuro in three dimensions: a hand‑engraved 5N‑gold dial drowned in pitch‑black DLC, all framed by a 39 mm rose‑gold case whose white‑gold “dovetail” lug nods to founder Simon Brette’s carpenter father. Only 50 pieces will leave the Geneva atelier and every single one is already spoken for. With collectors whispering about a decades‑long wait list, this watch is begging for a full WIPS breakdown.
Historical Context
| Year | Milestone |
|---|---|
| 2021 | Simon Brette SA founded in Geneva |
| 2023 | CA “Souscription” (12 pcs) wins GPHG Horological Revelation prize |
| 2023 | CA Titanium (< 99 → ult. capped at 50) sells out instantly |
| 2024 | CA Rose-Gold edition announced; full allocation confirmed before launch |
| 2025–26 | Steel & Platinum editions planned; annual output to hit ±48 pieces |
What Makes It Special
- “Battle” Dial – Artist Yasmina Anti fuses the earlier Dragon Scales and Tiger Claws patterns into a dramatic, high‑relief engraving.
- Solid‑Gold Movement – Bridges and plates are rose gold—territory usually reserved for the likes of Greubel Forsey or F. P. Journe.
- White‑Gold Dovetail – Functional lug insert inspired by carpentry joinery; now a house signature.
- Finishing Economics – Brette says ~66 % of retail cost (≈ CHF 56 k) is finishing labour alone.
Quick‑Spec Sheet
| Parameter | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | 39 × 10.5 mm, AU750 rose gold, 30 m WR |
| Dial | Solid 5N gold, black DLC, “Battle” engraving |
| Movement | In-house manual calibre SB-CA, twin barrels, 72 h PR, 18 000 vph |
| Regulation | Free-sprung, variable-inertia balance, Breguet overcoil |
| Edition Size | 50 pieces (2024-2028) |
| MSRP | CHF 85 000 (≈ USD 96 000 pre-tax) |
WIPS Scorecard
| # | Factor | Score (1-10) | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Brand Heritage & Recognition | 7 | New (founded 2021) but already GPHG-awarded and cult-famous among indie nerds |
| 2 | Rarity & Limited Production | 9 | 50 pieces, lifetime cap of ±200 CAs across all metals |
| 3 | Market Demand & Resale Liquidity | 8 | 4 000-name list; zero flippers yet, but appetite proven |
| 4 | Condition & Completeness | 9 | Delivered factory-fresh with full set; owners baby indie grails |
| 5 | Historical / Collectible Significance | 8 | First precious-metal CA following a GPHG win |
| 6 | Technical Complexity & Innovation | 7 | Time-only layout, but solid-gold movement & haute finishing |
| 7 | Long-Term Value Appreciation | 8 | Micro-output + buzz → steady upside, tempered by young-brand risk |
| → Total WIPS → | 56 / 70 | Strong Candidate |
Interpretation
A 56 places the Rose‑Gold CA squarely in strong‑candidate territory. Micro‑production, cult demand and museum‑grade finishing outweigh the relative lack of multi‑decade provenance or complicated mechanics.
Outlook
- Upside » If one hits auction, expect fireworks—the market has zero reference points.
- Risk » Brette must grow service capacity and follow‑up models without diluting exclusivity.
Key Takeaways
- Scarcity Is Structural. With 50 pieces and allocations locked, supply is frozen for years.
- Craft > Margin. Two‑thirds of MSRP is finishing cost—almost unheard of outside ultra‑high‑end independents.
- Investment‑Grade Indie. Few modern pieces tick more WIPS boxes.
Summary
The Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold encapsulates the very best and a few of the calculated risks of modern independent watchmaking. A strictly limited run of fifty pieces, museum‑grade hand‑finishing, and a movement executed in solid gold propel its WIPS score to 56/70, marking it a strong candidate for collectors who value exclusivity and artisanal craft over mainstream brand heritage.
That said, Simon Brette’s youth as a marque means long‑term resale curves will hinge on how the atelier scales, services, and follows up this inaugural family of watches. If you’re comfortable betting on a rising star and willing to wait in line this Rose‑Gold edition could very well become the reference that future Brette pieces are measured against.